Native American turquoise necklaces represent a significant cultural and artistic tradition, offering both aesthetic appeal and a connection to distinct Indigenous craftsmanship. For those considering an acquisition, understanding the nuances of turquoise sourcing, regional artistic styles, and construction methods is essential. This guide outlines key considerations to help distinguish authentic, well-crafted pieces and make informed decisions, focusing on the practical aspects of evaluation and care.
Understanding Turquoise Varieties and Their Impact
The value and appearance of a turquoise necklace often begin with the stone itself. Turquoise is sourced from various mines, each producing stones with distinct color, matrix (the host rock visible within the turquoise), and hardness. These characteristics directly influence a stone's desirability and durability.
Key Turquoise Mines and Their Characteristics
- Sleeping Beauty (Arizona): Known for its solid, robin's egg blue color with little to no matrix. This mine, now closed, produced highly sought-after, uniform stones ideal for fine jewelry. Its scarcity contributes to its premium value.
- Kingman (Arizona): Offers a wide spectrum of blue shades, from light to dark, often with black or brown spiderweb matrix. Kingman turquoise is a common and versatile choice, available in various grades.
- Morenci (Arizona): Distinctive for its deep blue color and characteristic "pyrite" matrix, appearing as sparkling silver or black inclusions. This unique matrix makes Morenci highly recognizable and valued.
- Bisbee (Arizona): Produces a rich, dark blue turquoise with a smoky black or reddish-brown matrix. Bisbee turquoise is rare and highly prized for its intense color and unique matrix patterns.
- Cerrillos (New Mexico): One of the oldest mined turquoise sources in North America, known for its wide range of colors, including blues, greens, and even yellowish-green, often with a brown or black matrix. Its historical significance adds to its appeal.
Stabilized vs. Natural: What It Means for Value
Turquoise is naturally porous and relatively soft, making it susceptible to color change and damage. To enhance durability and color, most turquoise used in jewelry is treated. Understanding these treatments is crucial for assessing value:
Natural Turquoise: Untreated and unaltered, retaining its original porosity and hardness. These pieces are rare and command the highest prices due to their natural state and the risk of degradation over time. Their color may deepen or change with wear due to absorption of oils from the skin.
Stabilized Turquoise: This is the most common form in Native American jewelry. Natural turquoise is pressure-treated with an epoxy resin, which fills the pores, hardens the stone, and stabilizes its color. This process makes the stone more durable and less prone to color change without altering its natural appearance significantly. While not as valuable as natural, well-stabilized turquoise is accepted as a standard for quality craftsmanship.
Treated/Dyed Turquoise: This involves dyeing the stone to enhance or alter its color, or impregnating it with plastic to mimic higher-grade turquoise. These treatments are less desirable and typically indicate a lower-value stone. Buyers should be aware of terms like "block turquoise" or "reconstituted turquoise," which refer to pulverized turquoise mixed with resin and dyes, formed into blocks, and then cut into shapes. These are not considered genuine turquoise in the same vein as natural or stabilized stones.
Distinguishing Native American Craftsmanship
The artistry in a Native American turquoise necklace extends beyond the stone to the metalwork, design, and cultural context. Identifying regional styles and hallmarks provides insight into authenticity and provenance.
Regional Styles: Navajo, Zuni, Hopi, Santo Domingo
Different Native American tribes have developed distinct jewelry-making traditions:
- Navajo: Often characterized by heavier gauge sterling silver, large, hand-cut turquoise stones, and intricate stamp work or repoussé (raised designs). Designs frequently feature bold, singular stones or clusters.
- Zuni: Renowned for their intricate stone-cutting techniques, particularly needlepoint, petit point, and inlay work. Zuni artists use many small, precisely cut turquoise pieces set together to create mosaic-like patterns, often depicting animals or geometric shapes.
- Hopi: Known for their overlay technique, where two layers of silver are used. The top layer has a design cut out, revealing an oxidized, textured bottom layer. Turquoise is often used sparingly, as an accent, or not at all, with the silver overlay being the primary focus.
- Santo Domingo (Kewa): Famous for heishi (pronounced "hee-shee") necklaces, which feature small, disc-shaped beads meticulously ground and polished from turquoise, shell, or other stones, strung together to create smooth, flowing strands.
Metalwork and Settings: Sterling Silver and Beyond
Authentic Native American turquoise jewelry is almost exclusively crafted from sterling silver (.925). Look for the "sterling" mark or ".925" stamp. The quality of the silverwork—its weight, finish, and the security of stone settings—are indicators of skilled craftsmanship. Bezels (the metal rim holding the stone) should be smooth, evenly applied, and tightly secure the turquoise without gaps.
Signatures and Hallmarks: Tracing Provenance
Many Native American jewelers sign their work, often with a unique hallmark, initials, or full name. While not all older pieces are signed, a clear, legible signature or hallmark adds to the piece's provenance and can increase its value, especially if the artist is well-known. Researching these marks can confirm the artist's identity and tribal affiliation.
Pro Tip: When evaluating a necklace, pay close attention to the overall balance and flow of the design. A well-crafted piece will feel substantial and harmonious, with stones uniformly set and metalwork showing consistent execution. Avoid pieces with sloppy solder joints, uneven bezels, or stones that appear loose.
Caring for Your Turquoise Necklace
Proper care preserves the beauty and longevity of your Native American turquoise necklace.
Cleaning and Storage Best Practices
Turquoise should be cleaned gently with a soft, dry cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals, ultrasonic cleaners, or abrasive materials, as these can damage the stone or alter its color. For sterling silver, a silver polishing cloth can remove tarnish, but be careful not to rub the turquoise itself with silver polish. Store your necklace separately in a soft pouch or jewelry box to prevent scratching and exposure to direct sunlight, which can fade the stone.
Avoiding Damage
Turquoise is softer than many other gemstones. Protect your necklace from impacts, extreme temperature changes, and prolonged exposure to water, lotions, perfumes, or household chemicals. These substances can penetrate the stone, especially natural turquoise, leading to discoloration or damage.
Acquiring Authentic Pieces: Key Considerations
When purchasing, prioritize reputable dealers who can provide information about the piece's origin, artist, and turquoise type. Ask specific questions about whether the turquoise is natural, stabilized, or treated. Understanding the seller's return policy and any authenticity guarantees is also important. While online resources offer broad selection, examining pieces in person allows for a closer inspection of craftsmanship and stone quality.
Maintaining Your Investment
A Native American turquoise necklace is often more than just an accessory; it's a piece of wearable art with cultural significance. By understanding the characteristics of different turquoise types, recognizing the hallmarks of skilled craftsmanship, and adhering to proper care guidelines, you ensure that your necklace remains a cherished item for years to come. This informed approach not only protects your investment but also honors the artistic heritage it represents.
Frequently Asked Questions
How can I tell if a turquoise necklace is authentic Native American?
Look for hallmarks or artist signatures, examine the quality of the sterling silver work, and understand the distinct regional styles (Navajo, Zuni, Hopi, Santo Domingo). Reputable sellers often provide documentation or artist information.
What is the difference between natural and stabilized turquoise?
Natural turquoise is untreated and unaltered, while stabilized turquoise has been infused with a resin to enhance its hardness and color stability. Natural turquoise is rarer and typically more valuable, but stabilized turquoise is durable and widely accepted in quality jewelry.
How should I clean and store my turquoise necklace?
Clean turquoise gently with a soft, dry cloth. Avoid harsh chemicals, water, and ultrasonic cleaners. Store the necklace in a soft pouch away from direct sunlight, extreme temperatures, and other jewelry that could cause scratches.
Do all authentic Native American turquoise necklaces have artist signatures?
No, not all authentic pieces are signed, especially older ones. However, a signature or hallmark can significantly aid in identifying the artist and confirming provenance, often adding to the piece's value.
