Native American coral and turquoise necklaces represent a significant category within collectible jewelry, distinguished by specific materials, traditional artistry, and cultural heritage. For buyers, understanding the nuances of these pieces is essential for making an informed acquisition. The value and authenticity of a necklace hinge on factors ranging from the grade and origin of the stones to the silversmithing techniques and the reputation of the artist. This guide focuses on identifying key characteristics that define these unique pieces, ensuring collectors and enthusiasts can appreciate their craftsmanship and inherent worth.
Understanding the Core Materials: Turquoise and Coral
The foundation of these necklaces lies in their primary materials: turquoise and coral. Both stones carry deep cultural and spiritual significance for many Native American tribes and are chosen for their aesthetic qualities and symbolic meaning.
Turquoise Varieties and Characteristics
Turquoise, a hydrated phosphate of copper and aluminum, is celebrated for its distinctive blue, green, and yellowish-green hues. Its appearance varies significantly based on the mine of origin and the presence of matrix—the host rock that appears as webbing or flecks within the stone. Notable varieties include:
- Sleeping Beauty Turquoise: Sourced from Arizona, known for its solid, robin's egg blue color with little to no matrix. It is highly prized for its pure, consistent tone.
- Kingman Turquoise: Also from Arizona, offering a broader spectrum of blues and greens, often with black or brown matrix. It is known for its durability and versatility in jewelry.
- Bisbee Turquoise: A rarer Arizona variety, distinguished by its deep blue color and a unique, dark brown "smoky" matrix. Its limited availability contributes to its higher value.
- Morenci Turquoise: Another Arizona mine, recognized for its deep blue color with an iron pyrite matrix, giving it a distinctive silver or black sparkle.
- Nevada Turquoise (e.g., Lone Mountain, Lander Blue): Often characterized by intricate spiderweb matrix patterns and a wide range of blue-green shades. Lander Blue, in particular, is extremely rare and valuable due to its small yield and intense color.
The quality of turquoise is assessed by its hardness, color saturation, and the integrity of its matrix. Stabilized turquoise, treated with epoxies to enhance hardness and color, is common and acceptable, but natural, untreated turquoise typically commands higher prices due to its rarity and unaltered state.
Coral Types and Their Cultural Resonance
Coral, an organic gemstone formed from marine polyps, is primarily used in red and orange varieties in Native American jewelry, though pink and white coral also appear. The most common is precious coral (Corallium rubrum), harvested from the Mediterranean and Pacific waters. Its use in Native American jewelry, particularly among Southwestern tribes, dates back centuries, often obtained through trade routes. Coral is valued for its rich color and smooth texture, providing a vibrant contrast to turquoise and silver. Its cultural significance often relates to protection, vitality, and connection to the earth and sea. Red coral, in particular, is highly sought after for its intense color and has been a staple in traditional designs.
Craftsmanship and Artistic Signatures
The artistry in Native American coral and turquoise necklaces extends beyond the stones themselves to the metalwork and assembly techniques. Sterling silver is the predominant metal, often handcrafted with precision.
Identifying Authentic Native American Work
Authenticity is a primary concern for collectors. Genuine Native American necklaces are typically handcrafted, reflecting traditional techniques and design motifs. Key indicators include:
- Hallmarks and Artist Signatures: Many reputable Native American jewelers stamp their work with a hallmark (a unique symbol or initials) or a signature. While not all older pieces are signed, contemporary work often is. These marks help attribute pieces to specific artists or tribes.
- Construction Quality: Examine the silverwork for clean soldering, sturdy bezels, and consistent finishing. Hand-cut and polished stones, often irregular in shape, are characteristic of traditional work, contrasting with machine-cut uniformity.
- Traditional Techniques: Look for specific techniques such as channel inlay (stones set into silver channels), mosaic inlay (small pieces of stone fitted together), cluster work (multiple small stones arranged around a central one), and heishi (disk-shaped beads strung together).
Pro Tip: When evaluating a piece, pay close attention to the bail and clasp mechanisms. Hand-fabricated bails and traditional hook-and-eye or simple toggle clasps are common in authentic pieces, whereas mass-produced clasps can be a red flag, especially on older items. Researching known artist hallmarks is crucial for verifying provenance.
Regional Styles and Techniques
Different Native American tribes have developed distinct styles:
- Navajo: Known for substantial sterling silver work, often featuring large, individual stones, squash blossom designs, and intricate stamping.
- Zuni: Celebrated for their meticulous inlay work, particularly needlepoint (tiny, elongated stones) and petit point (small, round or oval stones) designs, often creating intricate patterns with multiple stones.
- Hopi: Distinguished by overlay technique, where two layers of silver are used, with the top layer cut out to reveal an oxidized, textured bottom layer, creating symbolic designs. Stones are often used sparingly as accents.
- Santo Domingo (Kewa): Famous for heishi necklaces, traditionally made from shell, turquoise, and coral beads meticulously ground and strung. More recently, mosaic inlay on shell or jet backings has become prominent.
Factors Determining Value and Collectibility
The market value of Native American coral and turquoise necklaces is influenced by several converging factors:
- Material Quality: High-grade, natural, untreated turquoise from renowned mines (e.g., Sleeping Beauty, Bisbee) and vibrant, undyed precious coral significantly increase value.
- Artist's Reputation: Pieces by well-known, award-winning, or historically significant artists command higher prices due to their recognized skill and contribution to the art form.
- Age and Provenance: Older, well-preserved pieces with documented history or clear attribution tend to be more valuable.
- Craftsmanship and Design Complexity: Intricate silverwork, precise stone setting, and unique, aesthetically balanced designs contribute to a piece's desirability.
- Condition: The overall state of the necklace, including the integrity of the stones (no cracks or chips), the silver (minimal tarnish or damage), and the stringing, impacts its value.
Preserving Your Necklace: Care and Maintenance
Proper care is essential for maintaining the beauty and value of Native American coral and turquoise necklaces. Both turquoise and coral are relatively soft stones and can be damaged by chemicals, oils, and harsh impacts. Avoid exposing your necklace to lotions, perfumes, hairspray, and household cleaners. Store it separately in a soft pouch or jewelry box to prevent scratching. Clean silver components with a soft polishing cloth specifically designed for sterling silver, avoiding contact with the stones. Turquoise can be gently wiped with a damp cloth, but never submerged in water or exposed to ultrasonic cleaners, which can damage the stone or its stabilization treatment.
Making an Informed Selection
Acquiring a Native American coral and turquoise necklace requires a blend of aesthetic appreciation and informed discernment. Focus on understanding the materials, the artistic techniques, and the cultural context of each piece. By prioritizing quality of stone, integrity of craftsmanship, and verifiable authenticity, you can ensure your selection is a valuable addition to any collection, honoring the rich tradition it represents.
Common Questions About Native American Necklaces
How can I tell if the turquoise is real?
Real turquoise typically has variations in color and texture, often with a matrix. Plastic or dyed howlite imitations will feel lighter, warmer to the touch, and lack the subtle imperfections of natural stone. A common test involves gently warming a needle and touching it to an inconspicuous spot; plastic will melt or leave a mark, while stone will not.
Do all authentic Native American necklaces have artist signatures?
No, not all authentic pieces are signed. Older pieces, particularly those from the early to mid-20th century, often lack artist hallmarks. However, many contemporary artists do sign their work. The absence of a signature does not automatically mean a piece is inauthentic, but verifiable signatures add to provenance.
Can I wear my coral and turquoise necklace every day?
While durable, both coral and turquoise are softer than many other gemstones. Daily wear can expose them to chemicals, impacts, and oils that may dull their finish or cause damage over time. It is advisable to wear them for special occasions or with care to preserve their condition.
How does stabilization affect turquoise value?
Stabilized turquoise is natural turquoise that has been treated with a clear epoxy resin to harden it and enhance its color, making it more durable and commercially viable. While natural, untreated turquoise generally commands higher prices due to its rarity, well-stabilized turquoise is widely accepted and valued, especially for its improved durability and consistent appearance.
